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| 15/10/2012
Fashion and Luxury Industry Consolidates Recovery in 2011, but 2012 Starts Slowly

Fashion and Luxury Industry Consolidates Recovery in 2011, but 2012 Starts Slowly

GROWTH SLIGHTLY HIGHER IN 2011 THAN IN 2010 (12.1% VS. 11.7%) ACCORDING TO THE "FASHION AND LUXURY INSIGHT", THE ANNUAL REPORT BY SDA BOCCONI AND ALTAGAMMA PRESENTED THIS MORNING IN MILAN

Fiscal year 2011 confirmed the good health of the fashion and luxury industry, showing a growth in sales slightly higher than the previous year (12.1% vs. 11.7%), according to the “Fashion and Luxury Insight”, the annual report by SDA Bocconi and Altagamma monitoring balance sheets of listed international companies with sales in excess of € 200 million.

The industry profitability is stabilizing, the report, which this year has analyzed a sample of 77 companies, highlights: the average ROI is 13%, only slightly lower than 2010’s 13.4%, even ifbelow the pre-crisis levels, EBITDA margin is 14.1% (14.3% in 2010) and the ratio of working capital on sales is 18.8% (18.4% in 2010). The most conspicuous change is in ROE, which raises to a record 27.7% (18.6% in 2010), exceeding even the pre-crisis levels, as a consequence of a large increase in financial leverage, with gearing passing from 0.47 in 2010 to 0.76 in 2011.

“The preliminary 2012 financial data cast a shadow on the picture”, SDA Bocconi’s Paola Varacca Capello, co-author of the report, says. “We have data for 53 out of 77 companies and they are not very good: growth markedly slows from 12.1% to 7.8% and profitability suffers, as shown by the EBIT margin, which passes from 10.1% to 9.6%”.

“Company size remains a crucial driver of profitability”, Emilia Merlotti from SDA Bocconi, co-author of the report, says. “The largest companies, with sales above € 5 billion, outperform the rest both in terms of ROI and EBIT margin. On the other end, they record the lowest growth rates”.

As a whole, Jewels and watches and Apparel emerge as the best performing clusters of the year, with both growth rates and ROI above average.

“High-end is by far the most thriving segment”, Armando Branchini, secretary general of Fondazione Altagamma and co-author of the report, says. “In Apparel, for instance, companies have a 27.7% sales growth rate and a 19.8% ROI, against 11.9% and 14.7% in the medium segment and 16.6% and 10.5% in the mass market”.        

 

INDUSTRY FINANCIAL HIGHLIGHTS

Parameter Average
Sales Growth 12.1%
Return on Investments (Roi) 13%
Return on Equity (Roe) 27.7%
EBIT Margin 10.7%
Asset Turnover 1.26
EBITDA Margin 14.1%
Net Cash Flow to Sales 8.1%
Gearing 0.76
Current ratio 2.34
Intangible Assets Weight 24.1%
Fixed Assets Weight 43.8%
Working Capital to Sales 18.8%
Trade Debtor Days 40.77
Core Investments on Depreciation 145.5%
Total Investments on Sales 4.6%

Source: Fashion&Luxury Insight, FY 2011

TOP TEN BY SALES GROWTH

Company Country Cluster Sales Growth
Michael Kors Usa Apparel 62%
Lululemon Can Active 41%
Deckers Outdoor Usa Leather Goods 38%
Gildan Activewear Can Active 32%
Inter Parfums Fra Beauty 30%
Samsonite Eu Leather Goods 29%
Richemont Eu Jewels / Watches 29%
Genesco Usa Leather Goods 28%

Phillips Van Heusen

Usa Apparel 27%

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ita Leather Goods

27%

Source: Fashion&Luxury Insight, FY 2011

TOP TEN BY ROI

Company Country Cluster ROI
Coach Usa Leather Goods 50%

Lululemon

Can Active 39%

Michael Kors

Usa Apparel 37%

Hennes & Mauritz

Eu Fashion Retail 34%
Next Uk Fashion retail 32%
Fossil Usa Jewels / Watches 29%
Hermes Fra Leather Goods 27%

Deckers outdoor

Usa Leather Goods 25%

Gerry Weber

Eu Apparel 24%

Burberry

Uk Apparel 23%
Salvatore Ferragamo Ita Leather Goods 23%
Inditex Eu Fashion Retail 23%

Source: Fashion&Luxury Insight, FY 2011

TOP TEN BY EBIT

Company Country Cluster EBIT
Coach Usa Leather Goods 31%
Hermes Fra Leather Goods 31%
Lululemon Can Active 29%

Ports Design Limited

Asia Apparel 29%
Prada Ita Leather Goods 25%
Swatch Eu Jewels / Watches 24%
Richemont Eu Jewels / Watches 23%
Tod's Ita Leather Goods 22%
Dior Fra Financial Conglomerate 21%

Deckers outdoor

Usa Leather Goods 21%

Source: Fashion&Luxury Insight, FY 2011

TOP TEN BY CASH GENERATION

Company Country Cluster Cash Flow to Sales
Hermes Fra Leather Goods 24%
Coach Usa Leather Goods 22%
Prada Ita Leather Goods 22%

Ports Design Limited

Asia Apparel 21%
Inditex Eu Fashion Retail 19%

Lululemon

Can Active 18%
Burberry Uk Apparel 18%
Revlon Usa Beauty 16%
Movado / Tod's Usa Jewels / Watches 15%
Tod's Ita Leather Goods 15%
Next Uk Fashion Retail 15%
Hennes & Mauritz Eu Fashion Retail 15%

Fonte: Fashion&Luxury Insight, FY 2011

 

Fabio Todesco

E-mail fabio.todesco@unibocconi.it
https://www.press.unibocconi.eu
Barbara Orlando
Head of Press Office
Universita' Bocconi
Phone +39-02.5836.2330
Mobile +39-335.123.1716
E-mail barbara.orlando@unibocconi.it
https://www.press.unibocconi.eu
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